Big Bend National Park in the Summer Season
After my winter escapade in Big Bend National Park where the desert landscape was cloaked in the chill and thick fog of the season, I found myself drawn back to its rugged terrain once more, this time in the throes of summer’s scorching embrace. You can read that winter adventure here:
Six months had passed since my last visit, and the allure of experiencing the park’s extreme seasonal transition beckoned me with irresistible allure.
In a serendipitous twist of fate, I had recently made the decision to bid farewell to my job peddling solar panels door-to-door—an endeavor that had proven to be a mismatch for my skills and passions. With newfound freedom and a thirst for adventure, I rallied the same intrepid group who had shared in my previous Big Bend expedition, eager to witness the desert’s transformation under the relentless gaze of the summer sun.
Embarking on my second adventure, I left behind the confines of employment for the expansive wilderness, feeling a rush of liberation. Unbeknownst to me, this choice would not only create another unforgettable chapter in my Big Bend Saga but also initiate a new phase in my personal voyage of self-discovery and exploration. Full of anticipation and eager to contrast this experience with our previous winter escapade, we were poised for discovery. Would the desert unveil fresh secrets under the scorching summer sun? Little did we realize that this journey would unfurl unexpectedly, revealing an entirely different facet of the landscape we believed we knew so well.
Opting for the exact same itinerary as before, we eagerly returned to the familiar comfort of our lodging in Terlingua, which you can find more about in this incredible Airbnb you can find HERE. However, as we arrived under the veil of nightfall, a subtle unease tingled at the edges of our excitement. The comforting chill of winter’s embrace was conspicuously absent, replaced by an unsettling encounter with a swarm of camel spiders whose eerie presence seemed to cast a shadow over our return.
With trepidation, I stepped out of the car, only to find myself surrounded by these unsettling arachnids, drawn to the glow of my headlamp like moths to a flame. Despite my instinct to retreat into the safety of our Airbnb, the allure of the desert night sky proved irresistible. With hesitant steps, I eventually ventured outside, the warmth of the desert air enveloping me as I gazed up at the twinkling expanse above.
Though the night held its share of discomforts, from the unwelcome intrusion of the camel spiders to the oppressive heat that lingered even after the sun had set, there was an undeniable magic in the air—a sense of connection to the vast expanse of the cosmos that stretched out before us. And as we reclined beneath the canopy of stars, I couldn’t help but marvel at the ever-shifting tapestry of the desert, a landscape that revealed new wonders with each passing season.
The next day, we entered Big Bend National Park under the scorching grip of a heatwave, our spirits were tempered by the solemn warning from the park ranger: carry extra water or risk succumbing to the merciless heat (he basically meant death). Undeterred, we embarked on the familiar ascent, tracing the same path we had traversed in colder months, with the familiar NE4 campsite beckoning us with its promise of isolation and breathtaking vistas.
However, the unforgiving heat transformed the familiar terrain into an arduous ordeal. Each switchback demanded a halt, an agony to constant hydration and catch our breath in the searing heat. Despite lugging 3 gallons of water per person (that’s 24 extra pounds!), our reserves dwindled at an alarming rate, mirroring the relentless march of the sun overhead.
As we ascended in elevation, the thermometer’s reading of 118°F at the basin’s bottom remained a constant reminder of the desert’s relentless heat. Despite our hopes for cooler temperatures at higher elevations, we couldn’t discern any noticeable change. The air remained oppressively hot and dry, leaving us uncertain if our ascent offered any relief from the scorching conditions below. Nevertheless, driven by determination and a respectful acknowledgment of the challenges ahead, we pressed onward. The heat was unlike anything I had experienced before—an oppressive force threatening to overwhelm both body and spirit.
As we painstakingly erected our tent amidst the sweltering heat at the top of Chisos Basin, exhaustion washed over me like a tidal wave. The stifling confines of the tent offered no respite from the oppressive temperatures, prompting me to seek refuge outside my tent, where the slight breeze provided a modicum of relief.
Our initial plan was to spend two nights atop the mountain, but faced with the relentless heat and dwindling water supply, we made the decision to descend at the crack of dawn. However, during the cooler hours of sunset, when the temperature became more bearable, we seized the opportunity to explore the area around the rim. Bathed in the golden hues of twilight, we reveled in the awe-inspiring vistas of the Chisos Mountains, soaking in every breathtaking moment.
Here’s a journal entry I wrote about this sight back in 2017…
“It’s humbling to be sharing space with a mountain range because you then realize that there are natural formations that have existed on Earth way before we ever have. The journey of viewing a mountain from afar to slowly making your way uphill to reach its peak and to take in nature from a high precipices is without a doubt the most refreshing cathartic experiences. We are all drawn to mountains because in a world where we often think we are at the center, these massive summits make us rethink that idea. “
“As darkness descended, the celestial canvas unfurled above, a mesmerizing tapestry of infinite wonder. Each twinkling star whispered ancient secrets of the cosmos, weaving tales of boundless beauty and unfathomable mystery. In the desert’s embrace, we stood humbled beneath the vast expanse of the night sky, our souls touched by the profound majesty of the universe, reminding us of our fleeting presence within its grand design.”
We decided to leave the Chiscos basin and drive towards the Rio Grande Village where Texas meets Mexico. There were hot springs in the area and one of my favorite things to do is to soak in a natural hot springs! I have a whole post on my favorite hot springs I have explored in the United States, you can view that blog post here:
- Favorite Hot Springs in North America
As we arrived at the hot springs, we were met with a scene that appeared to taunt our expectations—a steaming pool amidst the blistering 118°F weather. Fortunately, nestled beside the hot spring was the Rio Grande, offering a welcome reprieve from the scorching heat. While the river’s waters weren’t as refreshingly cool as we had hoped, their presence was certainly appreciated, providing a semblance of relief from the relentless sun. What did we expect?
Following our time at the hot springs, where the tepid waters of the Rio Grande offered a brief respite from the scorching desert heat, we decided to head to Marfa, Texas, seeking new adventures. As we said goodbye to Rio Grande Village and the hot springs, we looked forward to exploring Marfa’s quirkiness and charm amidst the vast West Texas desert. Little did we know that our journey would lead to unexpected delights and cherished memories, lingering long after the sun had set on our desert escapade.
Before we could fully immerse ourselves in the Marfa experience, we made a pit stop in Alpine, Texas, where the allure of Big Bend Brewing beckoned us with promises of refreshment and respite. To our delight, our survival of the sweltering trek earned us a free case of beer—a fitting reward for our triumph over the elements. Each sip was a testament to the craft and dedication of the brewery, making it all the more bittersweet to learn of its closure due to the challenges of the COVID era.
Ah, Marfa—the epitome of quirky charm nestled amidst the desert expanse of West Texas. As we rolled into town, we were immediately enchanted by its laissez-faire attitude, where time seemed to bend to its own whims and businesses opened and closed on a whim.
Our chosen abode for the night was El Cosmico—an oasis of creativity and eccentricity where glamping meets camping in the most delightful of ways. I’d find myself back at El Cosmico a couple years later during a New Year’s Eve party in 2019, you can find that blog here:
We decided to explore the town by renting bikes from El Cosmico, which led us to the St. George Hotel. There, we indulged in the luxurious ambiance by lounging by the pool, which was free to enter at the time. However, please note that there is now a $30 entrance fee for a full day pass. Nonetheless, I highly recommend trying their frozen drinks for a refreshing treat!
As the night descended upon Marfa, casting the town in a blanket of darkness illuminated only by the twinkling stars above, we bid farewell to Hotel St. George and embarked on a serene journey back to El Cosmico. Mounted on our bikes, we glided through the silent streets, guided by the ethereal glow of the Milky Way overhead.
It was a moment of pure liberation—a symphony of sights and sounds that spoke to the timeless beauty of the desert landscape. With each pedal stroke, we felt a sense of freedom and connection to the vast expanse of the cosmos, a reminder of our place in the universe and the wonders that await those who dare to explore.
Returning to El Cosmico, we gathered beneath the canopy of stars and set about preparing dinner—a communal affair filled with laughter and shared memories. As we reclined in the hammocks scattered throughout the campground, the rhythmic arid breeze and the gentle rustle of the desert breeze provided the perfect soundtrack to our reflections on the journey we had undertaken.
Despite the unexpected twists and turns that had punctuated our trip, we couldn’t help but feel grateful for the experiences we had shared—the highs and the lows, the challenges and the triumphs. For it was through embracing the extremes of summer and winter that we had gained a newfound appreciation for the ever-changing tapestry of the seasons and the beauty that each one brings.
As we bid farewell to Marfa and the majestic landscape that had captured our hearts, we carried with us the memories of our journey—a testament to the transformative power of travel and the enduring bonds forged in the crucible of adventure. And though our time in West Texas had come to an end, the lessons we had learned and the memories we had made would remain etched in our minds forever, a reminder of the boundless wonders that await those who dare to explore the world around them.
