New Year’s in West Texas & Big Bend State Park during the Government Shut Down

This blog post chronicles my fourth journey to West Texas, marked by my enduring quest to conquer Big Bend National Park with my friend Greer. Over the past 18 months, Greer and I had explored 14 states together, yet our dream of backpacking through Big Bend had been repeatedly postponed. Our first attempt together was in the summer of 2017 which was halted by a family emergency, and a winter trip was foiled when a law school exam was rescheduled. You can read about those earlier adventures in my articles:

• Big Bend National Park in the Summer Season
• Teaching a Group How to Backpack in Big Bend National Park

A year later, after our last attempt, we were thrilled to embark on our long-awaited journey to Big Bend, only to encounter a new obstacle—a government shutdown that closed the park. This closure resulted in issues like increased trash and vandalism, putting a temporary halt to our plans.

What a surprise it was for us! Despite the setback of Big Bend National Park’s closure, we were determined to make the most of our journey. Since we had already endured the 8-hour drive, we decided to explore the essence of the neighboring town of Terlingua—a place I had yet to discover in my previous three visits to Big Bend.

Day 1: Terlingua, TX

Our first night was spent at a place called Basecamp, where we stayed in a beautifully appointed Airstream. It was a memorable stay, marked by an impromptu video shoot featuring my boyfriend at the time, showcasing his remarkable long-distance running skills. As I hung halfway out of the car, capturing footage on a bumpy dirt road that my Prius struggled to navigate, I felt a surge of joy in my creative process.

However, the reaction from my ex was disheartening—it felt like a punch in the gut. Despite his impressive speed, he deemed the video unworthy because it didn’t accurately convey his pace. Each time I shared it with friends, his embarrassment overshadowed my enthusiasm. This experience became a turning point for me, causing me to step back from filming and photography, and ultimately shying me away from blogging.

But now, having overcome this pointless criticism, I’m proud to showcase my work and eager to improve as I continue to explore my creativity through storytelling, photography, and filmmaking.

Despite the disappointing reaction from him, which came after the editing process, the trip itself was far from disappointing. Since nothing was edited, and I had filmed everything on the DJI Osmo, a remarkable little device with incredible stabilization capabilities. However, its tiny playback screen made it difficult to gauge what I had captured in the moment.

Day 2: Canoeing the Santa Elena Canyon

The very next morning, we embarked on a canoe trip down the Rio Grande River into the Santa Elena Canyon. As we paddled, our guide shared fascinating insights into the flora and fauna of the Chihuahuan Desert. I learned that the lechuguilla plant, also known as shin-daggers, is unique to this desert only and earned its name from its tendency to prick horses’ shins.

Moreover, I discovered that the candelilla plant was highly sought after, particularly during World War II, for its repellent properties used in waterproofing military gear. This plant thrives abundantly in the Chihuahuan Desert.

Another intriguing find was the presence of Giant Canes, also known as River Canes, along the Rio Grande. Originally from the Mediterranean, these invasive plants were introduced for erosion control but pose a significant fire hazard, particularly in the hot climate of Texas.

Throughout the journey, we encountered numerous pockets of hot springs along the river, characterized by steam rising and the sensation of hot water mixing with the cold river water when dipped by hand.

These were just a few of the many insights our guide shared with us. If you’re interested in exploring the Rio Grande further, you can book a reservation online with Big Bend Far Flung. We opted for a half-day trip, but they offer various other options for those looking to spend more time on the river.

We set up our tent on a piece of land we found on Airbnb, enjoying some homemade vegan burgers (I was forced to be vegan due to my relationship) on yet another windy West Texas night (seems to be a recurring theme!). Afterward, we ventured to the Starlight Theater for margaritas and then heard about karaoke at La Kiva Restaurant, conveniently located just minutes away.

Returning to our campsite in the middle of the night, we were shocked to find my tent missing, having been swept away by the wind. Despite our slightly tipsy state, we embarked on a search through the land and valleys, eventually stumbling upon my tent at the bottom of a valley. This experience taught me a valuable lesson: never leave your tent unattended without securing it with your belongings or at least a heavy object inside.

Day 3: Big Bend State Park

We opted to venture into Big Bend State Park, a mere two-hour drive from Big Bend National Park and/or Terlingua. Choosing primitive camping for the night, we immersed ourselves in exploration. While the park lacks the grand vistas of its national counterpart, the solitude and isolation proved unexpectedly refreshing. Primitive camping inBig Bend State Park is relatively straightforward, especially in the winter months when the mild climate ensures minimal exertion. However, it’s crucial to carry a compass, as the landscape’s uniformity can lead to disorientation. Here’s a short clip of Big Bend State Park:

Day 4: New Year’s Eve in Marfa, TX

On our final day in West Texas, we journeyed to Marfa and found ourselves at El Cosmico, where we embraced New Year’s Eve festivities. I cannot overstate how highly I recommend ringing in the New Year here. As someone who experienced a near-death encounter in 2012 on New year’s Eve, this day holds profound significance for me. Yet, the celebration at El Cosmico surpassed all expectations, marking the best New Year’s experience I’ve ever had. We camped at their campground, where the rate was $25 per person at the time. However, the current rate is $30 per night Sunday through Thursday and $50 per night Friday through Saturday. We welcomed the new year of 2019 amidst the enchanting atmosphere of Marfa and cherished every moment of it. So grateful for this experience! Here’s a sneak peak of that night!