Terceira: A Rustic Retreat in the Heart of the Azores
Our journey from São Miguel to Terceira was a breeze—just $50 and a quick 30-minute flight, and we landed on what locals across the Azores affectionately call the “festive island.” From the moment our plane touched down on Terceira, leaving the bustling island of São Miguel behind, I knew we were in for a different kind of Azorean adventure. Our adventure began with a scenic drive to O Antigo Lagar, an Airbnb that stole my heart with its charm and became my favorite stay in the Azores.
For more stories and travel tips from our visits to other islands, be sure to check out my other blog posts. Dive into our experiences across the Azores and discover what each unique island has to offer:
10 Things to Do in São Miguel Azores: An Island Escape Like No Other
Faial Azores: The Ultimate Motorbike Adventure
Uncovering the Best Wine Experiences in Pico, Azores
Sao Jorge Azores: A Unique Island Experience
O Antigo Lagar: A Symphony of Old World Charm
Nestled just a 30-minute drive from the Terceira airport, O Antigo Lagar was not just a place to stay; it was a masterpiece crafted from the ruins of an old estate. The owner, who personally restored the property, greeted us with unmatched hospitality. Each room was a curated exhibit of authentic design, from the carefully selected furniture to the tranquil garden, complete with friendly local cats that quickly became our companions. This was one my favorite places to stay in the Azores.
Queijo Vaquinha
Just a block from our stay at O Antigo Lagar was the aromatic Queijo Vaquinha, a local cheese factory that quickly became our favorite breakfast spot. Each morning, we were greeted by the rich smell of cheese being made, setting the stage for a breakfast of exceptional cheeses paired perfectly with local honey—simple yet utterly transformative in taste.
Rustic Beauty of Terceira
Driving around Terceira, the island’s rustic beauty was undeniable to see in the Azores. Cows strolled leisurely along the streets, and the less manicured landscapes spoke of a simpler, more authentic way of life.
Driving around Terceira, we were immediately enveloped by its rustic charm. The island’s landscapes, less manicured and wildly natural, hinted at a simpler, more authentic Azorean life. Cows roamed freely along the streets, adding to the bucolic scenery that defined our journey. Although during our stay in Terceira, the persistent fog served as a natural veil, shrouding the main viewpoints in mystery but somehow enhancing the island’s allure with its enigmatic presence.
Delving into the Natural Wonders
Nestled in the heart of Terceira, Algar do Carvão stands as a testament to the island’s volcanic heritage, offering visitors a rare glimpse into an ancient world beneath the earth’s surface. This remarkable volcanic vent, unlike any other accessible on the planet, allows visitors to descend into its depths, walking along a path that plunges into the earth.
Formed during an eruption more than 2,000 years ago, Algar do Carvão is a natural cathedral of geological marvels. As you enter, the descent takes you past various lava formations, stalactites, and stalagmites that adorn the cave’s interior. The cave’s walls reflect a myriad of colors, created by mineral deposits over centuries. The highlight for many is the view of the clear, still lake that lies at the bottom of the vent, a serene pool that collects rainwater seeping through the porous basalt.
Algar do Carvão is open to the public at specific times throughout the year, particularly in the summer and autumn months, offering guided tours that illuminate the cave’s geological significance and its role in the broader volcanic landscape of the Azores.
Visiting this natural wonder is not just a journey into the heart of a volcano but also a step back in time, offering profound insights into the dynamic processes that shape our planet. It’s a must-visit for nature enthusiasts, geology buffs, and anyone intrigued by the raw beauty and power of Earth’s inner workings.
Not far from this geothermal spectacle lies the Gruta do Natal, a lava tube that offers a glimpse into the geological past of the island. The cave, formed by flowing lava that solidified on the outside while the molten core continued to flow, now serves as a subterranean pathway lined with stalactites and rock formations that tell the story of Terceira’s volcanic origins.
Local Traditions of Bullfighting
Bullfighting, a tradition that stirs as much controversy as it does fascination, is an integral part of Terceira’s cultural fabric. Unlike the more famous Spanish version, the bullfights here are held according to Portuguese tradition, where the bull is not killed. Witnessing the locals practice this intense and skillful sport was both thrilling and a bit unnerving. The events, often held in local arenas or impromptu rings in village festivals, showcase a mix of courage and cultural reverence that has been passed down through generations.
Architectural and Spiritual Landmarks
Our travels also took us past many of Terceira’s beautiful churches. These edifices are not only places of worship but also serve as vibrant hubs of community life. Each church, painted in vivid colors and often adorned with festive decorations, stands as a testament to the island’s strong spiritual heritage and community bonds. The churches in the Azores are frequent gathering spots, where locals celebrate festivals and life’s milestones with pomp and fervor, reflecting the deeply ingrained traditions that make Terceira the “festive island.”
Although we missed the clear view from Miradouro da Serra do Cume due to the fog, the silhouettes of the patchwork fields and the rolling hills hinted at what would undoubtedly be a breathtaking sight on a clearer day. This spot, known for offering one of the best views in Terceira, remains on our list for a future visit, promising a panoramic vista that encapsulates the beauty of the island.
Exploring Angra do Heroísmo
Our culinary journey continued in Angra do Heroísmo, where restaurants like Tasca Das Tias and Mercatto di Osteria served up incredible local dishes that perfectly captured the island’s vibrant gastronomic scene. Angra’s historical significance as a UNESCO World Heritage Site only added depth to our dining experiences, each meal framed by exquisite Renaissance architecture.
Where to Eat in Angra do Heroísmo
Mercatto di Osteria
Located in the charming Angra do Heroísmo, Mercatto di Osteria is a culinary delight, combining Portuguese traditions with a hint of international flair. Our evening began with a refreshing Caipirinha, a new favorite for my husband, setting a festive tone for the meal. We enjoyed freshly baked Portuguese bread followed by standout dishes like octopus risotto, which was creamy and rich with perfectly cooked seafood. The pasta also impressed with its simplicity and robust flavors. Each dish at Mercatto di Osteria showcased a commitment to quality and flavor, making it a must-visit for anyone on the island.
Tasca Das Tias
Tasca Das Tias offers a cozy yet vibrant dining experience in the heart of Terceira. This local favorite charmed us right from the start with its inviting atmosphere and authentic Azores cuisine. We began our meal with a refreshing glass of green wine, perfectly setting the stage for a memorable culinary journey.
The starters were a delightful showcase of local flavors, featuring blood sausage that was rich and savory, paired excellently with the wine. For the main courses, the shrimp pasta was a standout, offering a generous serving of perfectly cooked shrimp tossed in a flavorful sauce. Meanwhile, my husband opted for the steak, which was cooked to tender perfection, highlighting the quality of local produce.
Culinary Deep Dive: Try the Alcatra
One of the most memorable experiences was an Azorean cooking class we booked through GetYourGuide.com. In the home of a local chef, we learned to make Alcatra, a dish that has since become a staple in my own kitchen. Surrounded by new friends, sipping wine, and taking in the views, we delved deep into the heart of Portuguese culinary traditions. Alcatra is the main dish of Terceira of the Azores. Check out my other posts on the main dishes of the other islands.
Discover the Delicious Main Dishes of Each Island in the Azores
Nights Filled with Festivity
Terceira, often celebrated as the party island of the Azores, offers a unique nightlife experience that goes beyond typical club scenes. While we didn’t dive into the usual party venues, we discovered a surprisingly festive spot at Queijo Vaquinha, a local cheese farm. By day, it’s all about the aroma of cheese and the taste of fresh dairy products. But as night falls, Queijo Vaquinha transforms into a vibrant social hub, buzzing with the energy of festivity and joyful revelry.
Filled with locals and tourists alike, the atmosphere at Queijo Vaquinha is one of happy drunkenness and communal celebration, where everyone comes together to enjoy good food, great drinks, and each other’s company. Despite closing at 10 PM, the hours spent there are lively and memorable, making it a standout experience in Terceira’s nightlife. It’s fascinating to see a place so focused on traditional cheese-making by day turn into a festive gathering spot by night, embodying the spirited nature of the island in every sense.
Final Thoughts: The Enigmatic Allure of Terceira
Even shrouded in a perpetual mist, the island of Terceira unveiled its essence not through visible landscapes but through an immersive sensory journey. The fog, rather than obscuring beauty, seemed to deepen it, enhancing the flavors, sounds, and spirit encountered at every turn. In Terceira Azores, the best views are indeed not always seen—they are felt deep within the soul.
This island, with its quilt of rustic landscapes and vibrant cultural tapestry, captivated us completely. From the unexpected revelry at a local cheese farm to the rich, smoky taste of blood sausage under the glow of lantern light, every experience was steeped in authenticity. The warmth of the people, their joyous celebrations of life, and their enduring traditions painted a vivid picture of an island that thrives on festivity and community.
Terceira is more than just a destination; it is a vivid reminder that adventure and discovery come in many forms—some seen, some unseen, and all profoundly felt. The island’s quaint charm and festive heart have left an indelible mark on our memories, promising that the echoes of its enchanting spirit will linger far longer than the mist that dances across its landscapes. Here, the past and present merge in a celebration of life that promises each visitor not just a visit, but an experience brimming with life and joy.
As we left, the echoes of music and laughter from Queijo Vaquinha mingled with the maritime breeze, a perfect symphony that encapsulated our time on the island. Terceira, with its layers of mist and magic of the Azores, truly embodies the idea that some places must be experienced with the heart as much as they are seen with the eyes. This enchanting island, though often veiled, remains unforgettable, urging those who touch its shores to look deeper and feel more profoundly the pulse of Azorean life.
